Practically
Speaking
with James Walker
Past Practical Columns
In my endeavors to
provide prospective hair removal consumers with reliable, relevant information
to their particular situation, I am in contact with scores of people who search
tirelessly for the ‘magic bullet’ that will solve their superfluous hair
problem. Common among these potential clients are those that know just enough to
get it all wrong, and argue vehemently. I am sure every electrologist has had
consultations with these types – misinformed and confused, but stubborn enough
to give you the devil’s own time trying to persuade them of the truth.
While ‘laser-wielders’ do all they can to
convince people that what they do is ‘electrolysis,’ I have uncovered the sad
fact that it is the electrolysis industry itself, through neglect and
individualism, that contributes to the misinformation and confusion. Until we
find a way to get all our voices in tune with some basic messages, I fear we
will be prey to gross misunderstanding time and again.
In my dealings with prospective clients, I
come across two types – the person who looks for a professional and grills them
with questions; and the person who looks for a professional who is (they
believe) as knowledgeable as they are. It is the latter type that poses the
greatest challenge to contemporary electrology.
I think the biggest problem we have is our
text books, which were all written decades ago and contain information that was
applicable to the equipment and techniques of the late 1940s but has no
relevance in the practice of electrology today. Though we hear about the latest
scientific studies on skin and hair, and learn in Hair Route and other
electrology publications about the latest technology for removing hair, no one
is updating our textbooks!
Other than Fino Gior’s textbook, Modern
Electrolysis, all the electrolysis textbooks a person might buy to read up on
our trade say that thermolysis has “an unacceptable regrowth rate.” None of
these books have ever been modernized to reflect the fact that with proper
insertions and treatment settings one can approach 100% accuracy (in any
modality). The old rules of treatment are important to a practitioner who still
uses an old Kree epilator (company defunct), but tell us nothing about getting
the best results out of this century’s Apilus Platinum.
Many of us know of electrologists who
still select a treatment setting based on the old adage: “Find what hurts, and
then turn it up a little.” However, where higher settings on old-time equipment
more often than not equated with pain, scabs, or even scars, today’s equipment
is so powerful, and so fast at delivering the currents, the correct (perhaps
even higher settings) pass without notice. The age of treating to the strength
of the hair is here in a big way, and one simply cannot use the old philosophy
on the newer equipment without needless damage.
When I was in my apprenticeship (and
later, school), I was told to read all the books I could and take note of how
they all disagreed. I was advised to make my own judgments based on my
experience using the techniques and equipment I had at my disposal. It was the
best advice I could have been given. Because of this, I am not afraid to use
modern equipment past the limits of the ancients. I also get my clients clear
faster than I would otherwise, utilizing any outdated paradigm.
Unfortunately, every now and then I come
across someone who has read a textbook or two, and we have a spirited argument
about how thermologists “are crooks, milking people of their money,” and
“multiple-needle galvanic is the only legitimate form of electrolysis.” In these
debates I usually end up sounding like a real fathead when my challenger says,
“Who do you think you are, to contradict the people who literally wrote the
books on electrolysis?”
The staff of O magazine come across this
problem in preparing their May issue and the result was that Electrolysis took
it on the chin again. Although they interviewed Patsy Kirby and others in their
research for the article, they went so far as to accuse the professionals of
lying about the sensation of treatment based on both a review of OUR TEXT BOOKS
and past and present experience of those who had treatment utilizing outdated
techniques and equipment. Their article reads, “Needles. Electricity. Needles.
Is it as bad as it sounds? “All you should feel is a warm sensation from the
current,” says the executive director of the American Electrology Association,
Patsy Kirby.(an understatement? Topical anesthetics are available.)...Doctors
who favor LASER hair removal...recommend it only to friends possessing the
fortitude, patience and high pain threshold of a Zen master.” This would not
happen if the average electrologist took the time to learn the latest
techniques, and utilized the best equipment available. When sleeping clients are
the norm across the USA and the world, and we can point to a text book talking
about horrible pain as an outdated edition, we will be much better off.
Alas, electrolysis needs an updated book;
one that is based on treatments performed on high-end, state-of-the-art
equipment. It is my belief that we will find that faster clearances are now
possible, and that we are now in striking distance of making skin damage a thing
of the past. Practically speaking, this convergence of information is long
overdue.
Past Practical Columns