Ask
The Expert
with
Bette Pritchett
Past Ask the Expert Columns
Dear Bette:
I have an impossible time trying to get the finer hairs on the upper lip to
“slip” out without pulling. Can you give me any tips on treating this type of
hair and maybe also how to treat accelerated vellus hair that is hard to
dislodge?
When
I received my training, I was told that EVERY hair HAD to slide out smoothly.
Then former AEA President Ruth Young Block informed me that it was too injurious
to the skin to apply enough intensity of current to do that job adequately.
The next opinion
imparted to me was that these hairs spend a long period of time in the teleogen
and catagen growth stages, and that the bulb of the root was not moist enough to
transmit either galvanic current or thermolysis energy.
The explanation, given
by an epilator manufacturer, was that galvanic current needs moisture (water)
and salt in the follicle in order for electrolysis to take place and that these
types of hair follicles were too dry to be adequately treated. He also explained
that even thermolysis required moisture in the follicle as the radio wave is a
sound wave and heats the tissue (germinative layer, papilla, and bulge area) by
producing vibration between the molecules of water. This vibration causes
friction between the molecules of water that produces heat, very much like when
you slide down a rope and the friction between your hands and the rope produces
a burn.
He went on to explain
that when an anagen phase follicle is treated, the environment inside the
follicle is very moist as one can see when plucking out an anagen stage hair and
seeing the mucous-like appearance of the root. Electrolysis and thermolysis are
individually, and together as the blend, able to create sodium hydroxide and/or
heat to destroy the follicle.
This is done by a
method similar to the way a microwave oven can heat liquids inside of Styrofoam
cups without heating the cup. He compared the telogen and catagen hairs to the
Styrofoam cup, and the anagen hairs to the liquid within the cup. One cooks, the
other is not affected by the heat.
So, I went merrily on
my way, trying not to over-treat the teleogens and catagens by forcing them to
slip out every time. Then I had a talk with Suzanne Anderer from Illinois. She
told me about a technique she developed called by the acronym, S.I.M.P.L.E. This
utilizes a very fast timing setting, measured in thousands of a second combined
with a very high intensity setting. The micro-pulse setting is initiated as the
insertion is made so that the entire length of the follicle, from the bulge to
the hair papilla, is treated sequentially.
I’ve adapted this
technique with my epilator, and have cleared up some very stubborn cases in just
a few short months. Be cautioned however, that the machine I used had an
automatic sensor on it. I am not timing the pulses manually. Since I have my
hair density count system to measure the results, I’m sure of my findings.
My clients even say
that they can barely feel it. I still have them use ice packs post treatment to
reduce swelling and to close the follicle openings so that germs will be
discouraged from entering and causing an infection. When treated with this
method, the telogen and catagen phase hairs, epilate without tugging.
So, I guess we have
come full circle. Stay tuned . . .
Your comments and
questions are encouraged. YOU are the ones who make this column possible.
Past Practical Columns