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Ask The Expert
with
Bette Pritchett

Past Ask the Expert Columns

Dear Bette:
I have an impossible time trying to get the finer hairs on the upper lip to “slip” out without pulling. Can you give me any tips on treating this type of hair and maybe also how to treat accelerated vellus hair that is hard to dislodge?

When I received my training, I was told that EVERY hair HAD to slide out smoothly. Then former AEA President Ruth Young Block informed me that it was too injurious to the skin to apply enough intensity of current to do that job adequately.

The next opinion imparted to me was that these hairs spend a long period of time in the teleogen and catagen growth stages, and that the bulb of the root was not moist enough to transmit either galvanic current or thermolysis energy.

The explanation, given by an epilator manufacturer, was that galvanic current needs moisture (water) and salt in the follicle in order for electrolysis to take place and that these types of hair follicles were too dry to be adequately treated. He also explained that even thermolysis required moisture in the follicle as the radio wave is a sound wave and heats the tissue (germinative layer, papilla, and bulge area) by producing vibration between the molecules of water. This vibration causes friction between the molecules of water that produces heat, very much like when you slide down a rope and the friction between your hands and the rope produces a burn.

He went on to explain that when an anagen phase follicle is treated, the environment inside the follicle is very moist as one can see when plucking out an anagen stage hair and seeing the mucous-like appearance of the root. Electrolysis and thermolysis are individually, and together as the blend, able to create sodium hydroxide and/or heat to destroy the follicle.

This is done by a method similar to the way a microwave oven can heat liquids inside of Styrofoam cups without heating the cup. He compared the telogen and catagen hairs to the Styrofoam cup, and the anagen hairs to the liquid within the cup. One cooks, the other is not affected by the heat.

So, I went merrily on my way, trying not to over-treat the teleogens and catagens by forcing them to slip out every time. Then I had a talk with Suzanne Anderer from Illinois. She told me about a technique she developed called by the acronym, S.I.M.P.L.E. This utilizes a very fast timing setting, measured in thousands of a second combined with a very high intensity setting. The micro-pulse setting is initiated as the insertion is made so that the entire length of the follicle, from the bulge to the hair papilla, is treated sequentially.

I’ve adapted this technique with my epilator, and have cleared up some very stubborn cases in just a few short months. Be cautioned however, that the machine I used had an automatic sensor on it. I am not timing the pulses manually. Since I have my hair density count system to measure the results, I’m sure of my findings.

My clients even say that they can barely feel it. I still have them use ice packs post treatment to reduce swelling and to close the follicle openings so that germs will be discouraged from entering and causing an infection. When treated with this method, the telogen and catagen phase hairs, epilate without tugging.

So, I guess we have come full circle. Stay tuned . . .

Your comments and questions are encouraged. YOU are the ones who make this column possible.

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