Caution still the word on cosmetic fruit acids
Alpha Hydroxy Acids, also known as AHAs, have become a ubiquitous ingredient in many cosmetics today. Derived from fruit and milk sugars and served up in creams and lotions, they have been given credit for curing every kind of skin malady from sun damage and dryness, to age spots and wrinkles.
The AHA cosmetics are believed to have derived from the “chemical peels” that dermatologists and plastic surgeons have used for years. The chemicals cause the skin to lose its outer layer, or peel off, revealing a fresher-looking layer of skin. Known as chemical exfoliation, the procedure is done in doctors’ offices so that doctors can control the process and prevent deep skin burns from the highly acidic solutions.
Cosmetic manufacturers began to market similar but less-potent chemical peels containing AHAs for salon and at-home use around 1989. Mass marketing started in 1992 and today there is a score of different product lines in department stores where there were formerly only two or three. The AHAs used most often in cosmetics are glycolic acid and lactic acid, although there are others, and many are used in combination. Some scientific evidence suggests these milder versions of the medical peels are effective, but not all authorities are happy about the safety of the do-it-yourself products.
Dr. Howard Murad, assistant clinical director at the University of California in Los Angeles and founder of the Murad Skin Care System, thinks AHA cosmetic peels are not only versatile and effective, but also quite safe at the concentrations that are sold in stores.
“They equalize the skin and make it act the way it should,” says Dr. Murad. “And that holds true, especially during winter, which is perhaps the most arduous season for the skin. Don’t think by exfoliating the skin you are thinning it, and therefore exposing it to harm,” adds Dr. Murad, “while there may be some irritation from extreme cold after a peel, it is unlikely to occur from over-the-counter AHAs.”
“Extreme cold dries the skin,” explains Dr. Murad. “AHAs help maintain moisture by casting off the dead skin cells and exposing the healthy ones. Moisturizing creams with AHAs work best on dry winter skin — another good reason to take advantage of beauty’s acid trip.”
The U.S. Food and Drug Administration has some reservations about AHA cosmetics. Since 1989, the FDA has received more than 100 reports of adverse reactions in people using these products. Complaints included: severe redness, swelling (especially in the area of the eyes), burning, blistering, bleeding, rash, itching, and skin discoloration. Some people in the cosmetic industry have suggested that AHA products are more than simple cosmetics, and would be better described as “cosmeceuticals.” Of particular concern to the FDA is that unlike traditional cosmetics, AHAs seem capable of penetrating the skin barrier. Typically, AHA products sold to consumers have an AHA concentration of 10 percent or less. The concentration of AHA products used by trained cosmetologists may run between 20 and 30 percent, while those used by doctors can range from 50 to 70 percent.
The FDA’s concerns prompted the Agency to order a new, up-to-date report on AHA safety. The report is due in the year 2000.
home
subscribe
advertise
about us
